WE LIKE YOU FOR THE RABBIT!
Rabbits are one of the most popular pets and that is no wonder because they are very nice pets! Rabbits are active, intelligent and social animals that must always be kept together. Rabbits that are kept together can show their natural social behavior and that is wonderful to see. They take care of each other, play with each other and really look for each other for attention. It is very nice to see how they deal with each other!
Bunnies often do not like to be arrested, with all four feet on the floor absolutely preferred. But when it comes to petting, the matter is very different, as most rabbits are fond of. Some bunnies are also really active with their owners asking for attention!
Rabbits belong to the family of the hareids (lagomorpha). You would think that a rabbit is a rodent, but that is actually not the case! The reason why the rabbit does not belong to the rodents are the two extra pen teeth that can be found behind the upper incisors. These two teeth do not have rodents.
Furthermore, rabbits have their beautiful long ears which stand or hang. The hind legs of the rabbit are strongly muscled and well developed to push off and therefore they are very fast and agile in their movements.
The wild rabbit has a gray-brown coat and a slight underbelly.
Rabbits live on average between 8 and 10 years.
RABBITS IN NATURE
You've probably seen them in the wild. Bunnies sprinting across a meadow and quickly shooting their hole. Rabbits live in large groups in the wild. They prefer sight in grassland, dunes and heathlands. They mark their territory with the help of small keys, puddles and they also have a georgier under their chin. With the scent gland they rub objects and thus set off an odor for other rabbits. Rabbits live in a strict hierarchy, which means that they have determined a hierarchy among themselves.
The animals dig burrows and corridors with multiple exits. Rabbits spend a lot of time above ground to eat, run and play. In the afternoon, however, it is just a rest, because then rabbits like to take a nap. They prefer to do this together and in the meantime they also like to coat each other.
If we would really like to show them all ... we would be short of pages ... there are more than 50 different rabbit breeds! The differences are not only in the colors, but also in the construction industry. There are rabbits with hanging ears, small dwarf rabbits such as the color dwarf of 1.5 kg and large Flemish giants that weigh up to 8 kg. When it comes to rabbits, the choice is really giant! In terms of behavior, there are often big differences. Often it is also the case that the smaller breeds are somewhat spicier than their larger peers. Poles, for example, are known to be very fierce.
HOUSING OF RABBITS
There is so much to tell about the rabbit housing! But we try to keep it as brief and concise as possible. As mentioned, rabbits are group animals and must always be kept together with at least two animals. Rabbits really need the space to run and play. In addition, the rabbits must be able to stand upright in their stay at all times.
Most rabbit breeds can be kept indoors or outdoors. For a Teddy Dwarf bunny the humid and cold conditions outside may not be very pleasant and for a Flemish Giant there may be a lack of space in the living room.
Rabbits generally can not withstand temperature differences. It is therefore advisable to let the rabbits get used to the outside climate in spring or early summer. It is not wise for outside rabbits to keep getting them inside in the winter. The temperature differences in the winter between the living room and the garden can be immensely large, making the rabbit sick. Rabbits who always live outside create a winter coat in the winter. This downy thick undercoat protects the animals against the cold, but it remains important to give the rabbits sufficient straw or other soil cover so that they can bury themselves warmly.
Whether rabbits live inside or outside, they all need space. Besides a stay it is therefore good to offer the rabbits at any time a run where they can move freely and even run a bit or go crazy :) A nice tip is to put the outside partly on the tiles so that the nails of the rabbits can wear out. In addition, a sandbox is also very nice. Some people use the blue sandbag as a rabbit sandbox ... they love digging very much! When you are outside, you must always be careful that the rabbits do not dig under the run. In addition, everything must be well sealed and preferably have a safety net over the run so that no predators can join, such as: cats, foxes, birds of prey or bunzings.
The size of the outside stay depends strongly on the type of rabbit and the number of rabbits. For two dwarf rabbits, 150 x 60 x 60 cm is a good start. It would be best if the farm is linked to the stay and that the rabbits can enter the barn freely. A good size for a run is for two dwarf rabbits 3 to 4 m 2. For the larger rabbits of 2 kg at least 200 x 80 x 80 cm for the stay and a run of at least 5 m 2 . A run inside can still be a challenge, that does not matter. In that case, allow the animals to walk around the room for a couple of hours a day so that they can run and play. Of course always under supervision and take measures against broken power cables! It must be safe for them.
HOOKKEN FOR RABBITS
- Two dwarf rabbits: 80 x 150 cm
- Rabbit 2 kg: 80 x 200 cm
- Rabbits between 2.5 and 5 kg: 0.3 m 2 per kilo of body weight. 2 rabbits of 4 kg are then 2 x 0.3 x 4 = 2.4 m 2 and that is 100 x 240 cm
- For rabbits swords than 5 kg is 0.25 m 2 per kilo of body weight. For two Flemish Giants you reach 3.5 m 2 and that is 100 x 350 cm
It may be self-evident that it is sometimes quite a challenge to find an inner cage for larger rabbit breeds. Attaching a house to the residence can be a good solution to give the animals the space they need. The underground of the run must be rough. If you have laminate in the house or another smooth floor then a bottom cover is a good solution. With carpeting, it is just a look that the bunnies will not eat here.
For each rabbit hutch money that it should not stand on the draft, in front of the window, in the heating in the sun or the wind. If the nines are allowed to walk around freely through the room, the cables should preferably be concealed in cable ducts and poisonous plants should leave the door to another room or a place where the rabbits can not reach it. You sometimes do not realize that our houseplants can be really dangerous for the animals. Think for example of the
- Aloe vera
BOTTOM COVER FOR RABBITS
For outdoor rabbits, a first layer of soil covering such as: Corn grains (Corbo), cotton (Cotton N Cotton), paper (Carefresh), cardboard (Card N Card), hemp fiber is suitable. In addition, a layer of straw must be added. Be picky when it comes to sawdust. Sawdust that is too dusty can irritate the airways of the animals.
Rabbits are clean animals and also clean. They prefer to have their needs in one place in the residence and preferably in a corner. Be sure to keep the corners of the accommodation free in the beginning. As soon as you find out in which corner the rabbits have made their toilet, you place a rabbit toilet there . In order to help the rabbits with the cleanliness, it is advisable to certainly put the little cuddly beds in the toilet at other places in the beginning. In this way, the animals know quickly enough what the intention is. In a large rabbit hutch with ren, you can also omit the soil cover and choose to put only ground cover in the toilet. This saves money and helps the animals even better with cleanliness!
PAY ATTENTION! Never use lump-forming cat litter! This can cause blockages in the gut if it is eaten.
THE RABBIT HOUSE
Finally, the rabbit house should not be missing in the stay. Rabbits find it nice to be able to withdraw sight. They like to do this by lying under or in something. A house gives them the peace they need to be able to do their lunchtime at noon. A night loft is sufficient for outdoor rabbits.
RABBITS HANDLE AND CARE
To pet? Gladly! Lift? No thanks!
It is good to know that most rabbits do not like to be lifted. If you take this into account in dealing with the animals, they will appreciate it! Rabbits that are really anxious can bite when they pick up or start to jiggle very hard with their hind legs. This allows them to scratch and hurt you, but worse they can even break their back if they flop too hard! If you pick up your rabbit, you have to be very careful, with your hind legs properly fixed.
RABBIT RABBIT WE DO SO
The head must be facing you so that the rabbit can see you. Then place your one hand around his ass and slide your other hand under his chest. You can now lift the rabbit and lay it against you, preferably with his head under your arm. So you have the rabbit stably fixed and he feels safe because he lies against your body.
A rabbit that is very disagreeable or not used to being picked up and reacts wildly is best picked up in the following way: To pick up the rabbit as safely as possible it is best to take the skin between the shoulder blades. Not to be confused with the skin in the net that should not, really between the shoulder blades and with the other hand under the butt you can pick up the rabbit and also put it back against your body.
PAY ATTENTION! Never lift a rabbit by its ears. This is sometimes depicted on cartoons, but is animal unfriendly and painful for the animals.
Especially in the moulting season, rabbits need thorough brushing! The short-haired rabbits especially have to be brushed when they are in the moult. The long-haired rabbits must always be brushed regularly because their fur will start tangling easily. Preventing klitten is much more pleasant for you and your rabbit than they fix! A comb and soft brush are ideally suited for brushing rabbits. During the daily cuddling session, you can use your hands to scour the coat on tangles, so feel at least one suit immediately to prevent worse. Do not forget the butt the tail, the coat often also quickly tangles. Be careful with the tail.
It can sometimes be an advantage to cut long-haired rabbit breeds once every two months. You can do this yourself with a special rabbit scissors or have it done with a rabbit trimmer. Pay attention to the face and let you know how short you can cut the coat. If you cut the coat too short or wrong, fur problems may arise.
NAILS CUTTING IN RABBITS
The rabbit nails have to be checked regularly and if they are too long they have to be cut. Here are special rabbits nail scissors for. Be careful not to cut the nail's life. This is the part of the nail through which the blood vessels and nerves pass. It is particularly painful if you cut it! With light rabbit nails you can see life running through the nail, cut it above the nail. With dark colored nails, life is almost invisible, you can use the coat line as a guideline. If you find it scary to cut the nails yourself, go past a rabbit trimmer or the vet. These people can show you how to do it so that you can do it yourself later on!
How often you have to clean the loft depends very much on how you set it up and which bedding you use. For example, if you do not have a floor covering, but only a toilet, you are quickly done and you only have to change the toilet every few days. Clean the drinking bottle regularly and beware of algae growth. This can be done both indoors and outdoors. There are special thermo covers that prevent algae growth in the drinking bottle. For outdoor rabbits, it is very important to keep the loft hygienic so that no flies come off. Use safe cleaning agents and rinse cleaned parts thoroughly with water.
A rabbit is a herbivore that means herbivore. Rabbits therefore need vegetable nutrition with a lot of fiber. The best source of fiber is hay . Therefore always give your rabbit enough hay. A good yardstick is to give a piece of hay per day that is just as big as the rabbit itself. There are fibers in both hay and straw , but straw has almost no nutritional value, so the preference is always for hay.
Grass and vegetables also contain a lot of fiber, but before the rabbit can eat this, it has to get used to this diet. Build this up slowly. Rabbits should not just get all kinds of vegetables. Especially gas-forming greens are bad for them. This includes coal and leek. Other vegetables such as endive, wortelloof, radish leaf, pieces of carrot, chicory are fine. They may also have fruit, but not too often. there are sugars in fruit, which means that the animals can get overweight. In addition, sugars are not properly processed by the gastrointestinal tract.
In addition to hay, rabbits also need rabbit food in the form of hard food. Here we have the choice of mixed food and everything in one lump. The big advantage of the all-in-one chunks like biks is that the rabbits can not eat selectively. Some rabbits eat selectively and only pick the tasty things from the feed, which can cause nutritional deficiencies, vitamin deficiencies, overweight or underweight. For which rabbit food you choose, the highest fiber content is preferred in our opinion. Hay must be the main feed at all times!
The amount of hard food that must be given can differ per feed brand. This depends strongly on the composition of the feed. Always look carefully on the back of the packaging where the manufacturer gives a nutritional advice. You also have to make a good estimate yourself, because an active outdoor rabbit needs more feed than a quiet rabbit. Different life phases can also play a role. Think for example of young animals, pregnant and lactating rabbits and of course the older rabbit. All these groups have different nutritional needs. There is fortunately a special diet for all these stages of life. You can also weigh the rabbits the first time and keep the weight.
Did you know that rabbits eat their night's spells? The appendixes. We call this with a very expensive word: "Coprofagie". The animals do this in order to extract all their nutrients and, in particular, the vitamin B12 from the diet. Rabbits eat these droppings directly from their anus. They are small shiny keys. If you often find these in the accommodation then chances are that your rabbit gets too much food.
KIDS MATERIAL FOR RABBITS
Rabbits do not belong to the rodent group ... they like to gnaw! In fact, they really need it. The teeth of rabbits also grow throughout their lives and have to wear well to prevent dental problems. Good rabbit gnawing material is:
- Willow branches
- Hazelnut branches
- Apple tree branches
The old-fashioned kal chew is not recommended to give as gnaw material. This can cause health problems. You will not find this stone in our assortment. Fortunately, there are nowadays healthy rabbits nibbles made of corn available, these are safe to give. However, the branches are preferable, besides gnawing it is fun pastime for the animals and they also get extra fibers.
A healthy rabbit you recognize by its active and alert attitude, clean eyes, clean and dry coat. You can recognize a sick rabbit by the following symptoms:
- lethargic and lethargic behavior
- do not eat
- dirty eyes
- dirty nose
- dirty fur around the ass
- bald spots
- slanting head
In the case of such symptoms, always visit the vet with your rabbit. If you see this at the time of purchase, do not buy the animal.
In addition, the droppings are an important pillar when it comes to the health of your rabbit. Small hard droppings indicate a blockage or too little food. Soft or even wet droppings can be an indication of bowel complaints. In the majority of cases, incorrect feeding or a too fast switch of feed is the culprit.
Do not eat your rabbit? Then you have to go to the vet right away! A rabbit can not eat too long without food, a day can be fatal or deadly. Supplementation is almost always necessary in such a case. Not wanting to eat can come through different things, intestinal problems, dental problems, pain, stress etc. Dental problems occur regularly, such as mis-growing teeth and molars. In that case, a veterinarian must always be consulted.
There are also two particularly dangerous and contagious diseases in rabbits. That is Myxomatosis and VHD (RHD). These two are almost deadly for the rabbit in all cases. VHD spreads very quickly and easily. Vaccination is strongly recommended by veterinarians. We can offer two virus variants of VHD in the Netherlands. Against myxomatosis and VHD type 1 is a vaccine that is given annually. VHD type 2 must be vaccinated semi-annually or annually. The latter depends on the vaccine.